Annapurna circuit trekking. 04 2017

Annapurna Circuit a short diary

April 2017. Padam B Chuwan/ Thimphu.

My desire to trek Annapurna Circuit in mid-west Nepal that embodies the Annapurna mountain range, the arid landscape, ancient villages, temples starting from a small road head town of "Dharapani" where the Monaslu circuit trek passes through following the Marsyandi river was like travelling an epic journey in the tranquility of the mountains looking up above the clouds at the towering Himalayan peaks.

Bhutanese usually trek by way of working/ income but for me when opportunity did not prevailed, I had to accept it otherwise.  Back in Thimphu at 2200-2300 mtr alt, I am quite a warmed up person, active and mostly engaged as otherwise being idle is difficult to handle even with a bottle of beer.  Familiar with difficulties in these mountains (Himalayas in Nepal is more challenging), altitude, plants, dal bhat, butter tea, Buddhism or Hinduism.

11 days of Manaslu circuit prepared me well, fresh snow from top and snow below the feet, moraines, landslides, glaciers not to mention of Dal bhat and Nepali pizzas etc in the guest houses, my onward journey towards “Thorong Pass” as local call it apparently was simply welcoming me, so I just picked up my ruck sack and headed off along the dirt road not really thinking that my boots with soles already out could hold further with the all-time medicinal “Super Glue”.

• ·   Compared to Manaslu circuits, villages are more developed, beautiful houses, shops and guest houses.
• ·       More trekkers of various looks at their own pace fast or steady.
• ·    Quality of food is much better, Manang and Thorong phedi even have bakeries. You can also get Gowda cheese and sea buck thorn juice is most shops. I go for my favorite the local beer call “Chhang”.
• ·  Daily expenses could be maintained below 3000 Nrs for budget trekking, you could comfortably ask the room for free in case if you find less people staying in the same guest houses!.
• ·    Chame and Manang has many shops including barbers and cobblers.
• · Talking of gears, my two companion tried to make it in flip flop except on my recommendation they changed to an ordinary knock off brand casual shoes for few hrs on the pass otherwise they were comfortable in quarter short too.

Annapurna circuit offers you with:

v  Breathtaking Annapurna Range 7900, 7500 mtr high peaks for days.
v  Typical traditional villages of south-western Tibetan similarity.
v  Changing landscape from pine forest to arid and bare mountain slopes, thin and stunted vegetation.
v  The lower mustang offers breathtaking views of Dhaulagiri and Nilgiri himal mountain ranges.
v  Buddhist temples and traditional villages.

Pls do not hesitate to ask or message me any questions regarding the trail, mountains or logistic.  I went absolutely as alone independent trekker had no agenda other than trekking in this beautiful trekker’s paradise.

My email address is padam.chuwan@gmail.com

Padam B Chuwan/ Thimphu.

Day-1: Dharapani – Koto/ Chame.  1860 – 2600 mtr alt.

Leaving behind Dharapani which could be loosely translated as “spring water” in English instead of “Dovan in Nepali or Chuzom in Dzongkha as a junction where Marsyandi – Dudhkhola meets, a school, govt offices, few shops, ACAP entry was located not forgetting a suspension bridge high up in the sky east of the river where perhaps even crows flies underneath, we enter Bagarchap village and this is Manang District valley all the way till the Thorong pass.  The trail follows the dirt road except for few short cuts which are clearly marked by Red top and white bottom indicating the main APC trail.  While most people may take all the available short cuts but we missed a few at Dhanakyu and therefore saw the thrilling water fall on the road side and an interesting rainbow trout farm under construction.  However, after the water fall and a big u bend comes another short cut not to be missed as such carpeted soft trail cannot be found in the entire trek including the serene comfortable walk in the forest reaching a beautiful big meadow-village Timang for lunch.

After Bagarchap, I met 2 guys looking out of the flock with flip flops instead of boots, semi dressed instead of light vest and inverted hanging water bottles with dressed raw garlics swimming in the water while the so called khairays in Nepali carries a small science lab for drinking water.  Certain elements of common perspective kept us together and interestingly lasted till the end of the trek.

The walk after Timang continued pretty gentle, pine forest, rhododendrons scattered around, suspension bridges, agriculture, villages and shops.  We reached the last village Koto before Chame where I accidently happened to find out that locally fermented rice and wheat “Chang” was great sitting outside in the lawn, 2 glass could give better kick than a bottle of strong beer and since the standard halt was less than 20 minutes’ walk down, we agreed upon buying the food and rooms free for better view of Koto peak and Annapurna-II to stay in the family run guest house.

Day 2. Koto-Ghyaru. 2600 – 3670 mtr alt.

No haste, slow and steady, did not realize Chame is just there after Koto.  It is a sub-district town with various government administrative offices like Police, land tax and School etc. One can buy and even get boots repaired on the side street, stationeries, batteries, emergency readymade garments, flip flops, socks or shoes.  The road is getting improved here despite my surprise that bringing heavy machineries, cement and fuel from south where the same road is dilapidated?  A contractor told me that development of an area depend on the initiatives of the government representative from the constituency and this in that case could be a motivated and well-chosen representative.  As in our system, main and feeder road network is usually planned and executed by center.

At the end of the town is a bridge and for those wishing to dip in the hot spring has to turn right, we missed perhaps too engrossed in talks and following the broad trail turning left. Another bridge then a climb following easy twist and turn, refreshment on the way like juices and shingaras.  You may come across an elderly man selling environment friendly walking sticks for 50 bucks the type of timber that would dispel snakes!.  Without much sweating the Dhukur pokhare lunch stop is reached. 

The trees are stunted, ground quite sandy, hard to find cattle but stunted goats and sheep with thick fur which makes famous “Pashminar” shawl.  Take left to go to Lower Pisang and take right to go to upper Pisang after the so called Dhukur Pokhari.  Upper Pisang is a scenic and strategically located village with semi-traditional houses.  The new upcoming guest houses are ugly buildings amidst the traditional flat roof houses.  Since, the standard halt is at Pisang (upper or lower) and we only had our lunch there, it was a pleasure to continue further so 3 of us headed further to the next stop with a climb after the mani wall to Ghyaru.

Ghyaru is a traditional village with mud mortar stone masonry wall and flat roofed houses facing west on a slope with Annapurna II and IV prominent towards the west including a monkey face if you look closely. Culturally Tibetan Buddhist, they are more synonym to Tibetan than Nepali in their looks and attire.  There is a beautiful chorten as you reach the village, a school which has prolong winter break and posters of a lost Russian trekker with a reward of Nrs 100’000 for his info.

Day 3. Ghyaru-Manang. Alt 2600 – 3540 mtr.

A wonderful journey where change is constant.  Leaving Ghyaru village is a wonderful trek with the backdrop of Annapurnas that makes you look back all the time.  Another village of similar architect with thatched roof comes up much closer to the snowy peaks towards the west.  The village of Ngawal at 3660 mtr alt, that has captured the heart and mind of many over the years and people coming back to stay in the village for a longer duration in the farm house is not rare.  At the top of the village lies some monastery.  The village itself inhabited with people of Tibetan descendant and cluster dwelling, a big prayer wheel in the heart of the village beside a well maintained guest house.



As we continue north, the Annapurna range expands continuous in the west across the Mysandi river, occassionally, the snow explodes triggering an avalanche by its own dead weight more so if the previous day experienced snow fall.  On the other side of the river is Humde airport beside the village which appears prosperous.  The motorable road to Manang passes from the middle of the village.

Lophelling Monastery has a big hostel with around 2000 students according to a caretaker monk who move to other places such as Kathmandu, Pokhra or Mysore in India during winter and they were yet to arrive during my visit.  A small stream “Juhu khola” at the base is a good place for washing, drying and sun bathing. A couple of houses on this stretch is quite primitive and abandoned, I made a visit to one house where some Nepali were having lunch for a bottle of Chang and it is as tasty as it was lifting the mood but at this altitude caution is to be observed.  We had a live view of an avalanche while sharing the bottle in the warm sun light.

Further down the dirt road is reached, a shanty shop and trekking inventory police who noted my detail announcing that I am the first Bhutanese they have ever recorded on this trail.

Every bend or 100 mtr the geography changes to more bare ground with sand and peebles, stunted pine trees and sculptured slopes.

We reached a much wider plain with some small restaurants beside the dirt road where we stopped for a Dhedo lunch.  Grinded barley cooked as porridge and served with cabbage-potato curry with small soup. 

 As we proceeded further we already converged with other trekkers like a military parade and clinking of the walking sticks, it is an interesting trekkers carnival to observe.  Manang village welcomes not just with a gate at the south but aromatic smell of a bakery on the left side of the road that will stop every trekkers for a visit.  On the right side is a park with a statue and 900 yrs old Braka Goemba little further to the right with an ancient surrounding of small thatched roof housings.

Manang is a district headquarter with all administrative offices.  It is a beautiful north-south valley on the east side of the Mysandi river, a small town with much to offer to adventurous trekkers lakes here are call “Iced lake”, caves “Milerapa” a famous ancient poet in Buddhist literature, Tilicho lake, the highest altitude lake in the world, Snowy peaks of Annapurna II, IV and III as far as eyes could see, really no forest to fear of anything, no snakes or leeches or insects just a wild smooth brown terrain for trek by foot, bicycle or bikes.  The world of sights and sound is replaced with those of Yak’s bell, may be chanting of monks on one of the monastery in the distant mountains, but surely the shops plays digital track of the chant, an interesting North Pole movie theatre running the some exotic movies like, The Everest, Seven years in Tibet, Into the thin air and more.  There are many guest houses Manang style in quite a unique settings, the houses lining the street are mostly stone walled, double stories thatched roof and how much I wish that this street remains the same in future.

Electricity, wifi available in almost all lodges, heated restaurants and hot water shower, this is a place to spend a day or two and explore the magnificient Himalayas right at its core.

Day 4. Manang-Ledar. Alt 3540 – 4200 mtr.

The dirt road ends at Manang.  Following the gentle gradient we pass through the village of Tengi village and then Gunsang further up.  Yak kharka lower and upper both were too early reached so we proceeded further to Ledhar at 4200mtr hoping that with others staying back at Yak kharka we could contribute our money to Ledhar but surprisingly, everybody seems to have the same thoughts pushing us to the farthest corner room adjacent to a toilet whose shutter had no sliding bolt. Never mind all approach makes sound so you know if somebody is coming.

Day 5. Ledar-High camp. Alt 4200 – 4925mtr.

For those with a bigger lung it is possible to reach Phedi from Manang directly (not recommended), indeed few ladies managed to do that but that is a great blunder I wanted to avoid and enjoy the views, silence and warm sunlight while we have clear sky and panoramic views, the guest houses takes care of food so why shorten the time.  A small stream can lure you to take dip as my companion Craig could not resist where all stones were still covered by sheet of ice, it was soothing for my feet.  A sign board in front of a slide reads caution little further, this is a place not be underestimated.  The slide is because of weathering rocks and optimum slope has already reached so shooting stones can be unpredictable.

Thorong Phedi at 4525 mtr alt is an interesting place with well managed guest houses, a helipad and AMS clinic facility too.  We had a long chat with Kancha Gurung and his partner about their varied experiences of the place, trekkers and management aspect of guest houses.  Another bakery, good coffee and I enjoyed the pizza too in the warm afternoon sunlight out in the open.  Phedi is just below rocky cliff surrounded except from the south.

There is no haste to proceed to high camp if one wishes to halt there instead of Phedi so we decided to be the last batch climbing up the last lap of the day to High Camp.  Every step ask for more oxygen, the gradient is not really gentle so the only way is not to look up but push inch x inch.  Being the last batch and prepared to sleep in the restaurant incase rooms are occupied, we were fortunate as the horse stable had 3 empty rooms with bed and quilt.  Icy-wet floor, the aromatic horse shit smell, they have a functioning pit toilet too so was a luxury for vagabond like us.

Day 6. High camp-Thorongla pass-Muktinath. Alt 4925-3760 mtr.

As in other cases, crossing the pass starts at dawn 4.00 am in most cases.  I was not spared by high speed wind at Larke Pass while moving at this time, so I decided to take it my way and we started at 6.30 am from High camp.  No wind, clear sky, with much ease we reached Thorong pass and found even a hut where they sell tea and biscuits.  A bit commotion of congratulating and usual hi 5, hugging etc.  Various pose and memento picture in front of the sign board Thorongla Pass 5,416 mtr alt. 

We headed down after spending sufficient time at the pass, quite steep for the knees but walking sticks provides good support.

There is a split after the guest houses take left and you are welcomed by Muktinath and Ranipowa town further down.  None will miss the towering peaks south of the valley, one to the right is Dhaulagiri and its range, other to the left is Nilgiri and its range. 

The whole valley is spotted by Buddhist temples, being Lower Mustang indeed it has dominant Buddhist population.  You may enter the Buddhist temple compound that will led you to the entrance to Muktinath temple which apparently is a hindu temple dedicated to lord Vishnu, taken care of by the Buddhist monks.  An interesting fusion, the inner temple gate opens at 6.00am, 1.00pm and 6.00 pm for prayers.  Passing through the 108 water spring at the back of the temple is considered cleansing so go for it as it cools down your body after a missile like travel downhill.

The Kali Gandaki flows west of the settlements with a wide bed expanding almost a km in width even though during lean the river appears to be small and meandering.

In the middle of the town is the Bob Marley guest house much frequented by trekkers.  Despite road head, it is still a silent town, motor bikes are seen coming up and down sometimes, the road is under construction still bumpy and no traces of black top yet.  Apart from Trekkers, the town appears to be more frequented by hindu pilgrims coming to the Temple.

The buses/ jeep to Jomsom ply from Ranipawa bus stand.  Perhaps the town is kept out of bound for buses for some economic reasons, there are a lot of Pilgrims who have to walk more than a km to reach the Muktinath entrance gate, and herds of horses are made available on hire for this stretch.  Reaching Jomsom before 8.00 am is good as most of the buses bound to Pokhra starts before 7.00 am, however, make no mistake that you have to go down from the drop point (a stupa with a big courtyard) along the street, cross the river and you will find a ticket counter on left hand side.  Further down more than a km, another ticket counter appears to be more active with optional transports too (some private cars coming to drop people one way and looking for passengers).

The best itinerary still would be to continue trekking till Tato Pani which can be done in 2 days or 3 days easy walk from other side of the Gangdaki river (I did not do that).  Tatopani (hot spring) is right beside the road and could also be dropped by bus from Jomsom.  I found the bus ride a bit risky and uncomfortable, in case if you are on the last row then a full helmet and safety gear is recommended, could be worst if you are suffering or just healing from stomach upset.  I made the point of stepping out of the bus every time it stopped to back track for giving way to oncoming vehicle.  Most stretch of the road stands over a vertical cliff with barely enough width for only 1 vehicle.  It took nearly 12 hrs to reach Pokhara and under the circumstances gripping anything solid beside to keep firm at every bend and bumps, my God, it was many blessing from elders at the time of departure for this journey and past merit that dropped me somewhere in the middle of the Pokhra street alive.

I have trekked to many places in Bhutan, considered unbeaten trails; many people prefer unbeaten trails to crowded routes.  While, trekking in Bhutan might be very fond but it is different in Nepal, the highest peaks in the world, majestic mountain ranges, lakes and live glacier, moraine, ancient villages, people and their way of life far from modern civilization, the peace that beckons from these trekking including Annapurna circuit is an enlightenment and shall remain fond in my heart, Oh my God, it is hard to say conclude this episode.  Shall be back again till these legs can carry this chasis.

Padam B Chuwan.

padam.chuwan@gmail.com